What remains of the Great War in Friuli Venezia Giulia: cemeteries, memorials, monuments…and much, much more.

I’m willing to bet several people who have known me, for some time, are likely tempted to state I may be obsessed with the Great War, and I would almost certainly win.

The tangible impact of the First World War in my Region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, continues to tell a powerful story and scores of people, luckily not merely the undersigned, are deeply intrigued by the evocative tales of sacrifice, heroism, stoic resilience and sense of belonging still echoing in this lesser-known area of Italy, after over a century from those events.

While a number of different, yet equally filling, experiences can be undertaken by visitors to try and understand what happened here between May 1915 and November 1918, the most palpable and moving of these experiences are certainly the several memorials built throughout the 1920s and 30s, when the Fascist regime was at the height of its power.

It’s certainly true that its leader, Benito Mussolini, himself a veteran of that war, majorly relied upon the symbolic power of these monuments to rally more and more consensus among Italians. In building a narrative of wishful national military power and portray a bellicose prowess, through somewhat tenuous references to the glories of Imperial Rome, some key aspects providing a different perspective should nonetheless not be overlooked.   

Aside from any political misuse, real or imaginary, of the sites I will mention, the sheer cost of that war proved enormous for the Nation and, more often, for average Italians who had either fought or lost loved ones on the rocky, dry Carso plateau, in the impervious Julian Alps, the unyielding Carnic Alps or on the hills surrounding the city of Gorizia, to mention but a few.

One element became, almost immediately, very clear: there was a need to remember, a spontaneous, motivated, loyal desire to evoke how an entire generation was called upon to fight and die for an ideal of unity. In other words, the initial, original memorialization of the battlefields was not imposed from above, from an abstract power; it started and grew, significantly with the soldiers themselves, indelibly scarred by the gruesome experience of the trenches, and then, later on, with their families and friends. The saying “lest we forget” found here, in Friuli, its true meaning early on, well before any regime might have decided to capitalize on it for mere political gain.

So, should you find yourself leisurely travelling through Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, perhaps you may want to set aside some time to stop and visit at least some of the sites listed here below, or join one of our cultural vacations and we will take you and share with you our stories.

Between a plate of Frico and a glass of Refosco, there must be time for some reflection, for the possibility that today we may still, perhaps at the eleventh hour, remember that a two or three percent in military spending, on a country’s Gross Domestic Product, should not, cannot, in fact, is not, the only available answer in difficult times. If this is what you believe, by all means, enjoy that Refosco, drive past and hope for the best, for that’s exactly what our forefathers were thinking on the eve of July 1914.

If instead somewhere in your heart and in your mind you think you can allow for the possibility that diplomacy is still the best answer, then your visit to these old sites will not have been in vain.

Redipuglia War Memorial

The Redipuglia war memorial is the biggest of its kind in Italy, and one of the biggest in the World. Built on the slopes of Monte Sei Busi, one of the many contested hills at the border with Austria Hungary, it was completed in 1938. It contains the remains of over 100.000 Italian Soldiers and Officers and of one woman, a nurse. Of note is the tomb of Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Aosta, the commander of the 3^rd Italian Army, which held, undefeated, the positions on the lower Carso plateau for three years. Imposing and very evocative.

Across from it, don’t forget to pay a visit to the original memorial site, on the so called “Colle di Sant’Elia”, now home to a very touching open-air museum.

Not far from Redipuglia, in the town of Fogliano, is located one of several Austrian-Hungarian war cemeteries, containing the remains of 14.550 imperial Soldiers. Don’t miss it!

*** Discover Friuli: A free 20-page travel guide of the top 10 experiences you can only have in Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Oslavia ossuary

On the slopes of Monte Calvario, almost like an eternal sentry over the city of Gorizia, is the final resting place for about 57.000 Italian soldiers, and over 500 Austrian-Hungarians, who perished during the numerous battles around that city, until its final capture by Italian troops in August 1916. Of note is the tomb of General Achille Papa, one of the most decorated and well respected Italian General officers of the time, killed in Action in 1917.

Kobarid (Slovenia)

Though not technically in Italy (eventhough it was part of Italy from 1919 onward til 1947 and prior to that the Austro Hungarian Empire), located in fact a short drive across the old border with Slovenia, through the Natisone Valley, is the Caporetto Ossuary (Caporetto being the Italian toponym for Kobarid). It holds the remains of over 7.000 Italian soldiers who perished following the momentous battle of Caporetto, in October 1917. While out there, let us take you for a visit to the numerous trench systems flanking the Soca River (Isonzo in Italian), meticulously maintained by the locals, and the town’s excellent War Museum.

Cimitero degli Eroi in Aquileia

Carefully maintained by Veterans’ associations, it’s located right behind the Aquileia Basilica. It originated as one of the burial sites for Italian soldiers and Officers at the beginning of the War. Here you will find, among beautiful monuments and simple crosses, the gravesite of Maria Bergamas, the Friulian woman who had the honor to choose Italy’s Unknown Soldier, now buried in Rome at the Altare della Patria. Of note, the tomb of Maj. Giovanni Randaccio, an Infantry Battalion Commander, killed in action by the mouth of the Timavo River in an effort to break through Austrian positions strenuously defending the access to the city of Trieste.  

The Ossuary Temple in Udine

The Memorial-temple of St. Nicholas, better known as Ossuary-temple of Udine, is located downtown. Imposing and iconic, it holds the remains of 21.500 Italian soldiers who died in WWI. A must, if you are in my very own city!

War Cemetery of Val da Ros

Located in Pielungo, in the Province of Pordenone, after significant changes, it now holds the remains of some German and Italian soldiers, who perished in the surrounding areas during the battles of 5 and 6 November 1917, as a result of the Italian retreat of Caporetto. Simple, touching, set in a beautiful landscape. If you are in the general area, don’t miss it!

Austrian-Hungarian Cemetery of Palmanova

Just outside the walls of this beautiful and unique UNESCO star-shaped town-fortress, it contains the remains of about 17.000 Habsburg soldiers, only 4.000 of whom are known.

Ossuary of Timau

Should you venture to the Carnic Alps, in the vicinity of the hamlet of Paluzza you will find this Ossuary, holding the remains of 1763 Italian Soldiers, previously scattered through a number of local war cemeteries, hastily set up by the soldiers themselves, and eventually brought together to rest, at the onset of WWII.

Should you wish to deepen your understanding and appreciation for the momentous events of the great war in our region, join us on one of our cultural vacations in Friuli. We look forward to hosting you!