Venice Is Not as Touristy as You Think
Who can miss this Italian jewel? Each year, millions of tourists visit Venice, eager to see for themselves its world-famous beauty. Many are lured by the Grand Canal and the grandeur of St. Mark’s Square. This many tourists can make finding the real Venice difficult. The good news? Many of the groups’ itineraries and day-trippers stay to the same well-worn path: Saint Mark’s Square, the Rialto Bridge and the Grand Canal. With the right timing and the willingness to discover more, you too can have moments where the city is truly yours, to really understand what it’s like to be Venetian, and understand why it is one of the most beautiful and treasured places to visit. This city will surprise even the most seasoned traveler when they see it the Travels with Audrey way on our small group journeys and custom guided journeys.
To find the real city, visitors do need inside help from a local insider like myself. I not only live only 1 hour away, but it is one of my favorite cities in Italy, and most of my clients who visit Venice for the first time with me, always tell me that it was their favorite experience because of the way I introduced the city to them as their local host.
Is Venice Worth Visiting?
I have heard it many times, from travelers that Venice is overrated. The city of canals were smelly, it was crowded, and expensive. Before I go into too much detail, the answer is yes. Venice is absolutely worth visiting. The first time I saw Venice was with my husband (who is Italian born and raised in the city of Udine, 1 hour from Venice) I fell under her magical spell.
Yes, there can be crowds, and popular places are touristy. And yes, you should go visit the main sights, because they are famous for a reason. You are a tourist, aren’t you? So go visit them along with everybody else. But follow my advice on how to avoid crowds in Venice so that you can discover the real magic of this floating city, even in high season.
6 non-touristy things to do in Venice
Venice isn’t exactly one of Italy’s hidden gems. Unless you travel with or know a local like myself, it can be hard to experience the Venice that exists beyond the postcard places. Worry not, there’s much more to Venezia than gondoliers and the Grand Canal! Another city thrives just off the beaten path here. There are several non-touristy things to do in Venice and 100% local-approved, and in this blog post I will share 4 of them:
1. The Rialto Market
Venice’s cuisine pays homage to the sea teaming with fish, shrimp and shellfish. To find the freshest seafood in Venice, you need to stroll the aisles of the Rialto Market. Dating back to the 11th century, the Rialto Market is Venice’s main open-air mercato.
2. Exlplore the neighborhood of Cannaregio
Located in the northern Cannaregio district, away from the most popular tourist routes, Venice’s Jewish neighbourhood (still known locally as ghetto ebraico, or ‘Jewish ghetto’) is one of the most evocative places in town as it encapsulates over 500 years of history and tradition.
The area, which is where the city of Venice forced Jewish residents to live from the early 16th to the late 18th century, is to this day the fulcrum of the local Jewish community, with family-run shops and kosher restaurants lining its streets. The district is also home to Venice’s Jewish Museum and five historic synagogues, all of which are open to visitors.
Now open to visitors on the island of Lido is a lesser-known site, the Cimitero Antico, which was in use between the 14th and the 18th centuries. The small cemetery is “like visiting a living testimony of centuries of Jewish life in Venice, and it’s much older than the ghetto,” said Marcella Ansaldi, art historian director of the Jewish Museum. The cemetery hosts the tombs of notable rabbis and poets, and a mass grave of plague victims.
3. Cichetti Bars
Neighborhood wine bars called bacari are an institution in Venice. Cichetti are to Venice like tapas are to Spain. After a day’s work, Venetians gather in their favorite bacaro. Venetians like to enjoy their happy-hour nibbles with a glass of wine or a spritz cocktail (invented in Venice). The bacaro bar is basically the exact opposite of a tourist trap, it’s a home away from home for Venetians.
Insider tip: Travelers who want to discover the real Venice can take a tasting tour of neighborhood cichetti. You’ll savor the local flavor in my company and my Venice born local friend and guide. From the several bacari we love to go to, Cantina do Spade, tucked halfway down the Calle delle do Spade, is one of the oldest. The restaurant really sparks to life around 7pm.
4. Artisan Workshops
It makes sense to take every opportunity to purchase some lovely gifts for friends, family, and yourself while in Venice. In doing so, make sure that you support authentic Venetian artisans rather than yet another cheap souvenir shop. Imported souvenirs are cheap in Venice but they lack in quality and undermine the work of honest craftsmen.
For example, cheap masks sold in Venice are not made in Venice and often are made with dyes that are harmful to the skin. While they are produced for decorative purposes only, often you are not told this by the store sales person. It is much better to buy Venetian masks made in one of Venice’s acclaimed mask workshops where the traditions of Venetian mask-making have been researched in depth and brought back to life.
Venice has a selection of skilled artisans and craftsmen. Visiting their studios and shops is such a great experience. They preserve the living history and traditions of the city. From handmade glass, jewelry, and lace to unique ceramics, prints, silk velvets, and marbled paper, the choice is enticing and the quality is high!
As part of the Venice Design show which took place during the 2017 Venice Biennale, the GAA Foundation supported the research into and selection of 42 artisan workshops in Venice to present the authenticity of craftsmanship of Venice. They all have different specializations and all share the values of handicraft, focus on materials, attention to detail and, ultimately, high quality. Some are functioning workshops while others are showrooms for the artisans’ products. Here below I listed just a few of my favorites:
- Paper making has long roots in Venice, similarly to Murano Glass or Burano Lace. Of special interest is the technique of mottling the paper. This means that the paper is decorated with colorful symbols, lines and other special features. Mottled paper is also called “Venetian paper”, referring to its origin. This paper is especially special if it’s made by hand, then each sheet is absolute unique, one can even call it a piece of art. Mottled paper is not only used as writing paper, but also for binding books (mostly the precious ones), to manufacture calendars or diaries, gift wrapping papers, greeting cards and small boxes. In his original workshop, Paolo Olbi produces leather goods and marmorata paper gifts traditional methods and materials. He mainly works by hand but is sometimes assisted by some antique machines such as early 20th-century typographical presses or trances for the press to warm the leather. However old the machines, the quality of Olbi’s products are everlasting.
- Forcola is the Italian word for something very unique, very important and absolutely typical of Venice. A forcola is a part of a Venetian gondola. If you watch a gondola closely, while sailing, you will easily recognize it – the thing in which a gondola driver fixes his oar for rowing – an oar holder (rowlock). The oar and the rowlock are the two most important parts of a Venetian gondola. Indeed, every oar and every oar holder that you see on Venetian gondolas (there are about 500 of them) are unique. Not one is like the other. But why? Well, first of all, they are all handmade, and second of all, made specifically for a particular gondolier. The manufacturer, therefore, must know exactly how tall the gondolier is, how much he weighs, and even how long his arms are. An oar holder is a wonderful gift, and is a real piece of art. You can buy one at the workshop of Paolo Brandolisio, located at Corte Rotta 4725. Looking inside the workshop is a treat in its own right. Paolo Brandilisio creates each forcola by hand, carving out of a single block of wood (usually walnut, cherry or pear wood).
- Salvadore opened his studio in 1987, where he uses self-built kilns to shape and mold his glass designs. He mixes lamp work and furnace techniques that result in unique and inventive creations. Because of his work at prestigious glasshouses and artistic international collaborations, Salvadore’s glass designs have become noteworthy to collectors and visitors alike.
- Far from Venice’s touristy areas, Vittorio Costantini’s workshop opened over 40 years ago, and now as a result of years of practice, his shop appears as a small museum with his personal collection of glass object. Vittorio works using the “flameworking” craft, but recently he has invented new techniques which allow him to create unique pieces dedicated to his inspiration: nature.
- This is the last artistic foundry in operation in Venice. It was founded in 1913 by Luigi Valese, and since 2006, his art continues in the name of Carlo Semenzato, a collaborator for 28 years and the current owner. The foundry is a charming example of industrial archeology dated 1797, in which the patina of time has softened, giving it that nostalgic romanticism of the early 1900 factories.
- Luigi Bevilacqua continues Venice’s most ancient fabric traditions using original 18th-century looms. With patterns from different countries and centuries, the velvets, brocades, damasks and satins found here mimic those of the past. The premises host 25 hand-operated looms, and visitors are welcome to have a look.
- Mario Berta Battiloro. Ever dreamed of seeing how the gold foils ornamenting San Marco’s mosaics or gondolas are made? In the Cannaregio neighborhood, former home to the famous Renaissance painter Tiziano Vecellio, you can find examples of this awe-inspiring art. Using 16th-century tools and gold beating techniques, the family carries on all handcrafted processes before your eyes.
- Squeri: behind the scenes of gondola-making: You may be well familiar with the sight gondolas in Venice’s canals, but do you know how they are made and who makes them? You can find out by visiting a local squero, a traditional boatyard where experienced shipwrights and their apprentices use as many as eight different types of wood to build these historical vessels.
5. Don’t order pizza. Have risotto or seafood instead
While pizza is the most famous Italian export, it is not a traditional Venetian food. In a country where food is highly regional, you’ll do your taste buds a favor if you stick to what’s local. So, head to Naples (where pizza originated) if you’re really in Italy for good pizza, but when in Venice, look out for risotto, polenta, seafood and tiramisu. If you’re brave enough, try the pasta al nero di seppia (cuttlefish served with ink). Another favorite of mine, and a local Venetian specialty is fegato alla Veneziana.
Why not have pizza in Venice? Often the pizzas served in Venice are not freshly made and have arrived in the city of water mass-produced and in a frozen state. This is especially true for those eateries that have printed pictures of dishes plastered all over their windows or on a large board by their entrance. If you simply must have a pizza in Venice, then make sure that you head to the places visited by the locals.
How to avoid the crowds in Venice
1. Allocate a couple hours to simply get lost: Follow the narrow streets and go over small bridges. Venice isn’t an attraction. It’s a city. It’s a small city, but there are plenty of areas where you can see locals out doing errands, and children playing. If you allocate the time and attention, you’ll find them.
2. Views over Venice without crowds: Instead of waiting in long lines and then climbing the narrow stairs of the San Marco Campanile with a crowd of people, my recommendation is to ascend the tower at San Giorgio Maggiore for the best views. The church itself was designed by the famed Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio and is well worth a visit in its own right.
3. Take that gondola ride in the small canals and not the Canal Grande: You’ll see Venice from a magical perspective, away from the crowded locations.
4. See Venice from the water. Venice was designed to be seen from the water. Its lavish palaces have their most splendid facades turned towards the canals. Its most important buildings are on the water’s edge. Make sure then that you see Venice as the visitors of the city in the past centuries did. From the water, floating down its canals on a gondola or a water taxi. This way you can truly appreciate the beauty, the elegance, and the grandeur of Venice, a city that challenges all conventions of the traditional urban settlement.
5. The glass-blowing island of Murano is incredibly touristy. Spend time exploring other islands in the lagoon, like Burano, Torcello, San Francesco del Deserto, Sant’Erasmo, San Michele or San Lazzaro degli Armeni. Visiting the islands helps you understand Venice’s historical context. Torcello is where the history of Venice started as it was the first island in the Venetian Lagoon where a settlement rose back in the 5th century AD.
6. Book your hotel in Venice itself, not in Mestre or somewhere else outside of the city. Venice receives an extraordinary number of day-trippers and by spending a night in Venice and exploring after the day-trippers have left, you will experience an entirely different side of the city. Venice is magical in the evening: more peaceful, more romantic, calmer and less crowded.
7. Go inside churches you stumble upon, especially those with a simple façade, those not visited by the large groups. There’s a pretty good chance you’ll see some incredible works of art inside, and it likely won’t be crowded inside. For example the façade of San Sebastiano doesn’t look like much, but this is a jewel of a church with frescoes by Veronese. Keep change in your pockets so you can pay to light up the works of art. Other ones I recommend are Chiesa di San Pantaleone and Chiesa di San Zaccaria.
8. Visit St. Mark’s Basilica first thing in the morning: Be there right when it opens, you’ll find shorter lines and fewer crowds. In addition, the mosaics are lit by natural light.
9. To see authentic Venice, wake up early and go to bed late: One of the best ways to see the authentic Venice, is to go for a walk around the city early in the morning (before 08:00) and late in the evening (21:00 onward). Free of tourist crowds, Venice is incredibly peaceful and you feel like the luckiest person in the world to have all this beauty for yourself. It really pays to wake up very early in the morning and go for a walk while the city still awakes. And then do it again in the evening and see how Venice quietly winds down after another hectic day.
10. Walk through Dorsoduro and the far reaches of Castello: Venice consists of six districts (sestieri), but the crowds of tourists are most often confined to three: San Marco, Santa Croce and San Polo. As soon as you explore a little farther, the crowds disappear and each of the remaining four other sestieri has its own stunning art and history.
If you pick one, the Dorsoduro district would be ideal. It’s not crowded, and there’s so much to enjoy. It is a great neighborhood for art enthusiasts. I suggest starting the Dorsoduro tour from the La Salute vaporetto stop. From there, you can visit the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute, built to celebrate the end of the 1630s plague and renowned for its exquisite Baroque facade. Only a five-minute walk away is the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. After that, walk 15 minutes until you arrive at Campo Margherita, one of the largest, and some would say most authentic, plazas of the city, a favorite of local students and the ideal place to rest and grab a bite. Later, Venetian art enthusiasts can visit the Gallerie dell’Accademia which houses a huge collection of paintings by Titian, Tintoretto and Canaletto.
11. Visit sites not on the main tourist trail: The walkways of Venice might be overcrowded, but many of its museums are not. According to the city’s official record published yearly, each year over a million tickets are sold for St. Mark’s Basilica and for the Doge’s Palace, but lesser-known museums sell only a tiny fraction of that. One of the most charming is Palazzo Grimani, in the sestiere Castello. The palazzo was once the residence of the Grimanis, a noble family who dominated Venice’s political and cultural life throughout the Renaissance as devotees and avid collectors of Roman art. Today, visitors can enjoy the palazzo’s elegantly grandiose architecture, inspired by the Roman Renaissance, and a collection of about 120 statues dating back to ancient Rome. The main hall, Sala della Tribuna, is so rich in art and beauty that it’s almost overwhelming.
12. Visit a Scuola or more: Though the name means “schools,” the Venetian Scuole are centuries-old mutual aid societies, hosted in marvelous palazzos and now open to the public. Back in the 16th to 18th centuries, the Scuole governed most aspects of life, from education to social security, for Venetians who didn’t belong to the nobility or the clergy. Today, they mainly maintain the priceless art that adorns their headquarters, relying mostly on membership fees from locals and tickets from visitors. Visiting one or more Scuole can offer a unique experience for those who appreciate art and value ethical tourism. “Even in an age of overtourism, people can do their part and be of help. Visiting cultural institutions that need support is a good way,” said my local expert guide.
Other recommendations for Venice
- Ride in a traghetto: These gondolas act as a form of public transportation across the Grand Canal and are most often used only by locals. For a small 2 Euro fee, you can hop on one for a quick ferry–aka gondola ride–across the Grand Canal!
- Pay attention to all the boats in Venice: You’ll get a sense of daily life by looking out for market boats, garbage boats, boats transporting gas to heat buildings, and more.
- Don’t go for an aperitivo at Harry’s bar, have a spritz with the locals at a bacaro: Bellini was invented in Venice by the owner of Harry’s bar. Sadly, the 1930’s charm of the bar has long gone and as tourist queue up to hand over €16.50 per Bellini, it’s no surprise the process has turned into a disappointing experience. Ditch the Bellini and enjoy an Aperol Spritz instead.
- Drink coffee with the locals: Walk a few paces away from the main square, Piazza San Marco, and the coffee price drops to €1.20 for an espresso. You have to shuffle in among the locals and drink your coffee standing (which is how the Italians do it anyway) but for a quick caffeine fix while still enjoying being in the square, this is a much better option. Now I do however recommend for a special once in a lifetime experience to stop in at Café Florian overlooking St Mark’s Square. You would be taking part in a historic ritual, as Cafe Florian is the oldest café in Venice. But do not be surprised by the high prices…you are sitting on Piazza San Marco and enjoying the live music.
- Step inside the original Merchant of Venice shop: If you’re hoping for a long-lasting and remarkable souvenir from your trip to Venice, or you just want to enjoy the beautiful flagship perfume shop, be sure to duck inside.
Ready to discover what makes northern Italy so special?
Audrey helps you make your vacation truly memorable by offering small group journeys and custom guided journeys.
