Truffle Hunting in Italy
Fall is the season for festivals and events taking place around Italy to celebrate the harvest season. Italy’s most well-known harvests are grapes and olives, but there are festivals (sagre in Italian) celebrating seasonal ingredients from apples to even the humble chestnut. Perhaps the most famous of all the harvest festivals in Italy is the festival of the Italian truffle.
The Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco (the international White Truffle Festival), is held during the months of October and November in the Piemontese town of Alba and showcases what foodies consider the culinary equivalent of gold – the white truffle.
For truffle enthusiasts, autumn is the best time to experience the magic of this earthy delicacy. The period from late September to early December marks the prime truffle season in Italy, when both white and black truffles are at their peak, and feature on many restaurant menus during that time.
When planning a trip to Italy, consider joining a truffle hunting tour with a local trifulau (an expert truffle hunter in Piemontese) and their dogs.
A Brief History of Truffles
The history of truffles can be traced back to ancient civilizations. The Sumerians, who lived in present-day Iraq around 4500–1900 BCE, are believed to be the first to have enjoyed truffles as a food source. Ancient Greek philosophers wrote about truffles, attributing their growth to mysterious natural phenomena.
In ancient Rome, truffles were considered a luxury food and were believed to possess aphrodisiac properties. They were enjoyed by emperors and the elite, often served at opulent banquets alongside other exotic delicacies. Truffles continued to be a coveted ingredient throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, with European royalty and nobility vying for access to the finest truffles.
For centuries, truffles were found exclusively in European countries such as Spain, Italy and France, where they grow in the wild. But over the past 50 years, truffle production has experienced an incredible global expansion, thanks to cultivation techniques that have given rise to plantations.
While black truffles can be grown on plantations, white truffles are impossible to farm as they need specific, optimal conditions to thrive.
What is truffle hunting in Italy?
It’s the ultimate farm-to-table experience. Truffle hunting in Italy is one of the most unique food experiences you can have.
Truffle hunting involves a wide range of skills and knowledge (about climate, the environment and vegetation) and to the dog-truffle hunter relationship. Hunting truffles is part farming, part art and part sport. Truffle hunting is a family affair, usually closed off to outsiders and passed from father to son. There are thousands of truffle hunters, some are professionals (a few) and most of them hunt truffles as a hobby. To be a truffle hunter in Italy you will have to undergo a training and final exam, before getting the ‘licence’.
The Piemonte region of Italy, as well as Umbria are celebrated for their superb truffles. Truffle hunting is often associated with pigs. It’s widely known that pigs are quite adept at rooting out this buried treasure, but unfortunately they want to hog the prize for themselves. Today’s truffle hunting is now done with dogs as they are much more reliable. Most hunting breeds can be used for truffle hunting but the Lagatto Romagnolo is the only dog recognized as a specialized truffle hunter. Mind you, the search for the truffle without a dog is strictly forbidden!
Truffles are, essentially, specific mushroom varieties that grow underneath trees and below the ground. Truffles are difficult to locate, however, their strong aroma makes it easier for dogs to seek them out. Truffle hunting in Italy is a foraging process that involves trained dogs accompanying Italian truffle hunters to sniff out the cherished mushrooms buried deep beneath the forest floor. Using the dog’s nose as a guide, the owner delicately digs out the truffles with a little hoe (called a zappino). Taking this action is crucial. It is important to avoid disturbing the truffle without causing any harm to the soil. If you want the truffle to keep producing after you dig it up, you’ll need to refill with the soil.
Here is a video of our truffle hunting experience in Umbria:
What are truffles?
Truffles are a delicacy that have been prized for centuries for their unique flavor and aroma. The tartufo (truffle in Italian and in Piemontese it is called trifula) is a fungus, and is found growing near the roots of trees. Usually, they are found at a depth of around 5 to 30 centimeters underground. Truffles grow best in a humid, colder climate. They are found in forests throughout northern Piemonte and central parts of Tuscany, Emilia Romagna, as well as Umbria and Le Marche growing beneath various tree species, such as willow, poplar, hazelnut and oak.
Black truffles are not very deep, sometimes they’re right under the surface. White truffles are commonly found 8–12 inches deep in the soil. When the temperature is lower, you’ll find white truffles sometimes one meter deep. When the ground is humid, it comes to the surface and the dog can catch the aroma.
Some facts about truffles:
- Fetching up to $US3,000 per kilogram, the white truffle is the most expensive edible fungus, followed by the black truffle
- There are several kinds of truffles: Winter Truffle Tuber Magnatum Pico, Black Truffle Tuber Melanosporum Vitt., Black Summer Truffle Tuber Aestivum Vitt., Bianchetto Tuber Borchii Vitt., Black winter Truffle Tuber Brumale Vitt
- Sabatino Truffles, one of the largest truffle suppliers in the world, unearthed the largest white truffle on record in central Italy this week.Weighing in at a massive 1.890 kg (4,16 lb)
- Truffles are expensive, but none as dear as the Italian white Alba version. These items have become difficult to cultivate, thus explaining the exorbitant price. A huge white alba truffle that came in at around 1.51 kilograms was once sold for over $160,000. A record two-pound 13 ounces Italian white truffle was once sold for $330,000.
How many types of truffles are there?
In total, there are 63 types of truffles found across the globe. There are 25 types of truffles growing in Italy in the wild. Truffle lovers can safely eat nine of them and of those, six currently dominate the culinary world. The Alba white truffle and the black truffle are the most famous and notable truffles in Italy.
What’s the difference between an Italian white truffle, Italian black truffle and Italian summer truffle?
White truffles have a smooth layer, from white to ochre color outside and white- hazelnut color inside. White truffles are less common than black ones and can be found in limited areas, because they need a specific microclimate and tree roots to grow. The only places in the world where you can find them are: Northern Italy (Piemonte), Central Italy (Tuscany, Marche, Umbria) and in small areas of Istria and Slovenia. That’s why the price is also very different. White truffle can cost up to 7 or 10 times more than the black one. The best, most coveted white truffles are the ones from Alba. The Italian white truffles are particularly aromatic and therefore the most precious.
Black truffles, also known as the Perigord truffle, have a rough, black or dark brown rind and have a less powerful smell, more reminiscent of mushroom and soil. The most revered of the black truffles are found in Umbria.
Italian summer truffles are in season from March to November. This black truffle is found in Piemonte (also known as Scorzone), Tuscany and Le Marche. During this relatively long season, visitors can join truffle hunts and enjoy shaved black truffles on almost everything. Try black truffles on top of beef carpaccio or shaved over local pasta.
Is the truffle hunting real or staged?
A truffle hunting experience lasts several hours, and takes place in muddy and slippery woods. Most hunters go out in the darkness in the wee hours, regardless of cold and rain, avoiding to reveal where potential finds might be. Our trusted truffle hunters though have developed easier routes, nothing grueling but trails set in real truffle woods where usually (but not always) truffles can be found within a reasonable distance. In case of total lack of truffles, it is possible to stage a small black truffle in order to show how the dog finds it: in this case you will be told beforehand that it is a simulation by our trusted providers. Anyhow, the dog doesn’t know where the truffle sits and it is not any easier to find it, even if the hunter hid it.
Why should I go on a truffle hunt?
Meeting the truffle hunter (Trifulau in Piemontese or tartufai in Italian) and the dog is always a highlight in itself. The trifulau in Piemonte, is a legendary figure who, in foggy, melancholy autumn weather, goes out and looks for truffles. Then, they sell them directly to restaurants, shops or at markets. Standing there in the woods, experiencing the connection between the man and the dog is just one of the added values of this activity.
What to Wear During a Truffle Hunt
The perfect gear includes a waterproof jacket and comfy shoes – better if you have walking boots. Remember that you’ll be walking through the woods, on hilly lands. Ensure also that you wear long trousers that cover all your legs because they will do you a good deal in protecting you from being scratched by brambles. There are tics in the undergrowth in the summer months, so ensure that you tuck your trousers into your socks/boots.
Level of Fitness needed for a Truffle Hunt
Truffle hunting is ideal for everyone although a level of physical fitness is necessary. Your tour for hunting truffles can extend up to three hours hiking around the woods as you search for truffles. So, if you are planning to go for truffle hunting and you do not usually walk, is best to start ahead of time to do some training walks around the area where you live. Rest assured that our truffle hunt is made as easy as possible however a basic level of fitness is still required.
How to eat truffles
The best way to serve white truffles is to thinly shave them raw atop a dish. They should never be cooked because the beauty is in the aroma. When you cook it, the smell disappears. The Alba white truffle pairs best with pasta made with an egg-based dough. We recommend tagliatelle, tagliolini, pappardelle, as well as all stuffed types, from tortellini and ravioli to agnolotti.
The power of black truffles comes from their taste, rather than their smell, so they’re best enjoyed cooked. The black truffle also works with pasta, but can be enjoyed atop roasted meat and veggies, too.
Truffles in our home region of Friuli Venezia Giulia
With boundless hectares of English oak and hornbeam, maple, oak, ash, and elms, as well as a fresh and deep rich soil very close to the lagoon which accentuates its salinity, this is ideal truffle land. We offer our clients a one-of-a-kind day in search of a rare treasure, the white truffle, in the Friuli region’s woods near Udine.
Words of advice
Beware of the truffle shop, besides high quality products such as Urbani, many of these touristy souvenirs are about as authentic as the mini plastic Colosseums you’ll find on the streets in Rome and barely contain any of the real stuff. Buying fresh Italian truffles can be a fraught process requiring a fair amount of esoteric knowledge. The best way to eat them fresh as a visitor to Italy is to either attend a truffle festival, a truffle hunt or order them during the fall in restaurants that will often have them as a special. Truffle oil is also a delightful way to take a bit of that magical aroma home with you.
Italian truffle hunting a UNESCO world intangible heritage
According to a UNESCO panel meeting held in Paris on December 16, 2021, Italian truffle hunting has been included to the UNESCO list of the world’s intangible cultural heritage.
Why did it make the grade?
“Truffle hunting and extraction in Italy” is an intangible cultural heritage based on traditional knowledge and practices handed down orally for centuries and which characterise the rural life of truffle hunters in Italian truffle-growing areas, according to UNESCO.
“A heritage of vast knowledge, centred on a profound understanding of the natural environment and the ecosystem, which underlines the relationship between humans and animals by combining the truffle hunter’s expertise and the olfactory abilities of the dog, of which man is a skilful trainer and with whom he forges a symbiotic relationship. An ancient tradition that tells of a practice that unites Italy from north to south, interpreted according to local cultural identity, handed down through stories, anecdotes, practices and proverbs that tell of a knowledge that combines rural life and protection of the land,” UNESCO said in a statement.
“Tagliatelle al Tartufo” recipe
Like most recipes using truffles, it is a very simple dish so that the flavor of the truffle can be savored.
Serves 4
400g tagliatelle
250g Cream
1 Glass of milk
50g Butter
50g Parmesan
80g Black truffles
salt and pepper
Boil the pasta in salted water, drain them al dente and pour them in a pan over the stove to mix with the butter,cream, milk, half of the Parmesan cheese and a pinch of salt. Stir in the tagliatelle, next adding the grated truffle, Parmesan and remaining pepper. Remove from heat and serve.
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