Porto Venere, Gem on the Ligurian Riviera
When thinking of the Italian Riviera, the well-known Cinque Terre often come to mind first. These five villages deserve a spot on your list. But this part of Liguria has a sixth town, a gem worth taking the time to visit and my personal favorite. But what’s even better is that Porto Venere often gets overlooked by visitors in a hurry to see the nearby Cinque Terre. It does get the buses that come in from the cruise ships that dock in La Spezia, but these groups do not spend much time in this town, before boarding their boats for Cinque Terre.
Positioned just inside the mouth of the Gulf of Poets on Italy’s Ligurian coastline and protected by a rocky promontory, Porto Venere, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is within easy distance of the more familiar villages of the Cinque Terre but easily as beautiful. Porto Venere was founded by the Romans and is said to have taken its name from a temple dedicated to the goddess Venus.
Strategically positioned and once a Genovese stronghold, the town still resembles a citadel with narrow, painted houses forming a barrier against attack and a large fortress towering above. Today, the atmosphere is far more tranquil: fishing boats bob lazily in the confines of the town’s marina, while restaurants spill out on the waterfront. With regular ferries to surrounding villages, it makes a very attractive base from which to explore the region. Whether you’re seeking cultural landmarks or simply soaking in scenic beauty, Porto Venere offers a rich and rewarding experience for visitors.
One thing to note, you may see signs that say “Porto Venere” as two words. This is technically correct but you’ll find both spellings online and even in Italy.
Why is Porto Venere a UNESCO World Heritage Site?
UNESCO inscribed Porto Venere Italy in its list of World Heritage Sites in 1997, along with Cinque Terre and the Islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto. The reasons are the local cultural landscape of great scenic and cultural value. In particular, this territory captures the continuous history of human settlement over the past millennium, overcoming the disadvantages of the steep and uneven terrain. Learn more on why Porto Venere and its islands are a World Heritage Site.
Things to see and do in Porto Venere
The steep cliffs, turquoise waters and pastel-hued villages that form the backdrop of the Gulf of La Spezia have attracted numerous writers and artists including D.H. Lawrence, author of Lady Chatterley’s Lover, and Virginia Woolf. Most famously, it enchanted the Romantic poets Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron with its evocative setting and mysterious caves.
Classic things to do in Porto Venere include hiking up to the majestic Doria Fortress built in the XII and XIV centuries, hiking on Palmaria Island, strolling in the narrow carugio lined with craft and food shops, sipping an aperitivo or fine dining on the harbor, visiting the iconic churches of San Pietro and San Lorenzo. Why is this bay known as the Gulf of Poets? Reach Byron’s Grotto to find the answer. It is said that this fantastic swimming spot was a favorite of the poet Lord Byron, who meditated and swam here in the 1800s.
If you are looking for more unusual things to do in Porto Venere, don’t miss the oyster tour that takes you around the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto and includes a visit to the local oyster farms. It’s a fantastic opportunity to discover why this exquisite, exclusive product has a unique green color and taste.
Church of San Pietro
Dramatically set on a rocky promontory jutting out into the sea, the bold black-and-white-striped exterior of the Church of San Pietro is visible from far out in the bay. This simple church has served as a quiet chapel since it was consecrated in the early 12th century. Built in the Genovese Gothic style, the striped marble was added in the 13th century. Perhaps more interesting are the remains that can be seen of the site’s first foundations, a 5th-century Roman temple.
Church of San Lorenzo
Right next to the castle you can find the Santuario della Madonna Bianca, built between 1118 and 1130, also called the Church of San Lorenzo. Every year, on the 17th of August, Porto Venere celebrates its local Patron Saint called White Madonna (Madonna Bianca). During the festival, the entire fishing village is lit up with over 2000 roman torches and candles, including Byron’s Grotto and the rocky spur of Punta San Pietro. A traditional procession carrying the icon of the Virgin Mary takes place through the flower-decorated streets of the village.
The legend of the Madonna Bianca of Porto Venere
Wondering why this beautiful village venerates the White Madonna? The religious cult is tied to a miracle that legend has handed down through generations. As the story goes, during the French occupation in 1399, Portovenere was devastated by a plague. Lucciardo, a local devout man, was praying in front of an image of the Virgin Mary, asking for his village to be freed from the terrible disease when, suddenly, the colors of the painting lit up, gleaming. The plague disappeared after this miraculous event. Prior to the miracle – still according to pious tradition – the painting was a faded hand-drawn parchment that had washed ashore on Portovenere inside a log with other relics in 1204. Following the transformation, the painting was kept in the Church of San Lorenzo.
Lord Byron’s Grotto
Just next to the church of San Pietro you can see an observation deck next to Lord Byron’s Grotto (previously Grotta Arpaia). The Bay of Poets gets its name because Lord Byron often stayed here and he used to swim across the bay to visit his fellow poet Shelley. If you like scuba diving, make sure to pay an “underwater visit” to this cave, which is located within the Protected Marine Area of Portovenere.
Are there beaches in Porto Venere?
Porto Venere has some lovely beaches and bays where you can sunbathe from either the land or a boat. Check out the guides to the Best Beaches in Porto Venere and, for more choices nearby, the Best Beaches in the Gulf of Poets.
Excursions and Experiences
Porto Venere is a fantastic base to explore Cinque Terre and the Gulf of Poets. Riomaggiore, the nearest of the Cinque Terre, is a short boat ride away or you can also reach it by hiking along a panoramic trail. Lerici and Tellaro are the other hidden gems of the Italian Riviera that led this bay to be called the Gulf of Poets. Portovenere is only a one-hour drive away from Tuscany’s art cities of Pisa and Lucca, and from the wonderful marble caves that were used by the Romans and Michelangelo. There are many options available around Porto Venere that can be arranged through the hotel including a pristine wilderness hike on the nearby island of Palmaria, a boat excursion with a fresh oyster feast and a trip to a vineyard in Riomaggiore for local wine tasting. You can also visit Ca’ Lunae Winery, attend a cooking class, relax at a spa like Portovenere Wellness.
Palmaria Island Hike
Palmaria Island is a short ferry ride from Porto Venere. The island is completely uninhabited with wildlife and untouched nature. The hike around the island can be steep at times but the views are worth it. It’s such a serene escape that most tourists don’t know about it which makes for a great way to experience the region without crowds. The island, which is an imposing limestone formation, can be visited with a hike of 4 or 5 hours. Its winding loop path takes you to ancient forts, the fragrant scrub and to spectacular cliffs and grottos, where fossil remains of Pleistocene animals and burial sites have been found.
Hiking path 510 (loop trail around the island):
- The route: Terrizzo – Punta Carlo Alberto – CEA (Ostello Palmaria) – Crossroads with the “Path of the Condemned” (511) – Pozzale – Forte Umberto – Terrizzo
- Distance: 6 km (3.72 mi)
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Elevation: 280 mt (918.63 ft)
- Hiking time: approx. 3 hours
La Possa Winery Tour and Tasting
I’ve never seen views so spectacular from a vineyard, carefully terraced on the cliffside overlooking the deep blue ocean. The three-hectare property produces 25,000 bottles of wine annually, with 70% sold in Italy and the rest internationally. The owner, Heydi Bonanini, is dedicated to creating Slow Wine. Like Slow Food, Slow Wine is all about sustainability and natural growing processes with minimal pesticides and irrigation. He also prioritizes giving back to the community by teaching children about plant cultivation and supporting a charity for disadvantaged locals. The wines are unique, featuring a light and crisp quality with mild salinity due to the proximity to the ocean.
The town of Lerici
Across the Gulf of Poets from Porto Venere is the ancient Etruscan town and Roman port of Lerici. It’s dominated by a 12th-century castle which once controlled entry to the Gulf. Today it houses a paleontology museum and offers sweeping views over the bay. Frankenstein writer Mary Shelley and her husband Percy Bysshe Shelley lived a couple of miles north of the town, and it was here the poet drowned while returning to Lerici by boat in a storm. The town is fringed with several sandy beaches ideal for whiling away a few hours on a sunny day and easily accessible from Porto Venere by local ferry.
Sail to the Islands
From the harbor of Porto Venere you can take the public transport or get a taxi boat and sail around the mesmerizing islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto. On Palmaria you can trek along its paths, swim in its beautiful bays, dive in its grottos, relax at a beach club or restaurant. Tino cannot be visited on foot because it is a military territory. However, in occasion of St. Venerio, patron saint of the Gulf of La Spezia, this island can be visited by tourists twice a year: on 13 September and on the following Sunday. Tinetto is little more than a rock; still, from the sea you can spot ruins left by ancient religious communities.
What to eat in Porto Venere?
Seafood reigns supreme, with delicacies such as ‘muscoli’ mussels and oysters that are cultivated right in front of Portovenere. Traditional dishes include fried fish, ‘scabeccio’ marinated fish, focaccia, the ‘mesciua’ legume soup, trofie pasta with pesto…One of the best restaurants in Portovenere is called Palmaria Restaurant. Another recommendation is Trattoria Tre Torri.
Where to stay in Porto Venere?
Porto Venere is home to the only 5-star hotel in the area of Cinque Terre and La Spezia. Grand Hotel Portvenere is a boutique hotel full of charm and history. The building dates back to the 1600s, and it is recognized as a Dimora Storica. This title is given to ancient buildings that are part of Italy’s historic and cultural heritage. You can learn more about the history of Grand Hotel Portovenere here. Whether you’re visiting Porto Venere for a short trip, don’t forget to book the best hotel with scenic views to double the enjoyment!
How to get to Porto Venere
- By car: It’s really easy to get to Porto Venere by car from La Spezia with a panoramic 20-minute drive. You can access Porto Venere by car and park right next to the historical center. There is no free parking unless you book directly with a hotel such as Grand Hotel Portovenere. But if you are coming in the summer months, unless you are staying in the town, it will be nearly impossible to find parking.
- By boat: You can get to Porto Venere by boat from the ports of La Spezia, Lerici, Levanto and four of the Cinque Terre towns (Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola and Riomaggiore). The boat service generally begins towards the end of March and ends in early November. You can also opt for a taxi boat service or sail in your private boat.
How to reach Cinque Terre from Porto Venere
From Porto Venere, getting to Cinque Terre is easy by ferry, which departs right outside of the Grand Hotel Portovenere door. However, the ferry does not run if the weather isn’t ideal. In this case you can arrange a transfer service through Grand Hotel Portovenere to bring you to the train station in La Spezia. Depending on the train schedule, it takes about 20 minutes to reach the furthest town (Monterosso), where you can hike through all the towns depending on your stamina. By ferry, it takes about an hour depending on the time of year and is a wonderful way to see the five towns by sea.
Porto Venere Regional Natural Park
Liguria’s seaside hiking cliffs are famous and not just the ones in the Cinque Terre. Portovenere Regional Nature Park covers 900 acres that include Portovenere and continues to the nearby islands and protected marine areas. Porto Venere Regional Natural Park has several hiking trails. It’s possible to hike from Portovenere to Riomaggiore. It’s a very scenic coastal walk. You can hike one way and take a boat back (or vice versa).
A spectacular 36-km long trail winds through the ridges of Cinque Terre, connecting Porto Venere and Levanto. It is known as Alta Via delle Cinque Terre, and it offers breath-taking views of the cliffs overlooking the sea, immersed in the scents of the Mediterranean scrub. The first stretch of itinerary is called Sentiero n.1 and goes from Portovenere to Colle del Telegrafo, from where you can descend in the village of Riomaggiore.
From Porto Venere to Riomaggiore
From Piazza Bastreri in Porto Venere, you can take the trail that runs along the majestic Doria Castle and that leads you to Monte Muzzerone. This white limestone wall is 310 meters high and a popular spot for rock climbing. This is the first and most important obstacle to overcome on Sentiero n.1: the hiking trail is well marked but, considering the slope, requires a certain effort. However, you will be repaid by the view: nearby you can see the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto; the rugged and jagged Cinque Terre landscape and the Promontory of Punta Mesco.
After a passage and a stretch of woods, you reach the village of Campiglia, at 400 meters above sea level. This small village is on the ridge that divides its panoramas between the sea of the Cinque Terre on one side and the Gulf of La Spezia on the other. The hiking trail then alternates pine and chestnut forests that occasionally thin out and give you wonderful views of the sea below, including the Ferale Cliff and the hamlet of Schiara.
Along Sentiero n.1 you will notice how the landscape was affected by human action with the typical dry-stone terraces cultivated with vines, which are crossed by curious monorail vehicles that winemakers use to move along these steep slopes.
At 500 meters above sea level, the hiking route continues among beautiful cork oaks and then crosses the pine forest that houses the Palestra nel Verde (outdoor gym/sports area). With the last stretch in the scrub you reach Colle del Telegrafo (516 meters a.s.l.), from where you can enjoy a unique landscape on the Apuan Alps, the Carrara marble quarries and the green Val di Vara between Liguria and Tuscany. Leave the Alta Via hiking trail to take Sentiero n.3, that takes you down to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the Cinque Terre villages. Along the way, you will find the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Montenero (354 meters a.s.l.) dating as far back as 1335.
Overall, this hiking trail between Portovenere and Riomaggiore is 9km long and needs around 5 hours to be completed. There is a difference in altitude of 550 meters, and although there are some steep slopes occasionally, Sentiero n.1 is accessible to all. You can hike it throughout the year, although in summer it is advisable to hike in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the strong heat.
Ready to discover what makes northern Italy so special?
Audrey helps you make your vacation truly memorable by offering small group journeys and custom guided journeys. When working on client’s itineraries for their custom journeys, I like to recommend Riomaggiore as a base for exploring Cinque Terre and the surrounding region. The town has so much charm, and the crowds are more manageable than directly staying in one of the five towns. Whether you choose to visit during peak season or plan your trip for the off-season, there is plenty to enjoy and experience.
