A Vineyard called Friuli
Italy has literally thousands of wine and grape varieties, though most people automatically think of a Chianti or a Barolo when thinking of Italian wine. The alpine foothills of our home region of Friuli are some of the best white wine producing estates in Italy and though some of the wine producers’ names, Radikon, Zidarich and Schiopetto, hardly sound Italian, the vineyards and wineries are undeniably Italian.
Friuli Venezia Giulia is undoubtedly one of Italy’s most enchanting wine-producing regions, yet remarkably it is one of the least explored. Its tranquil, uncrowded wine country is nestled in Italy’s far northeast next to the Slovenian border. Friuli-Venezia Giulia, located in Italy’s northeastern corner at the crossroads of Austria, Slovenia, and Italy, is a wine region like no other.
Usually just called Friuli, it is the fourth smallest region in Italy, with a population of close to 2 million, but this small region produces some of the most amazing white wines in Italy, and some equally splendid reds. In Friuli-Venezia, DOC wine is produced from 26 different grape varieties. Half of them are native varieties, which means they have their origin in the region.
Although the region’s fine wine reputation was built on white wines, especially those made from Tocai, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Ribolla Gialla, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, about half the region’s production are red. Merlot is the leading variety, with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in pursuit, plus terrific indegenous red grapes, such as Schioppettino, Refosco and Tazzelenghe. In all, more than thirty grape varieties are commonly planted. Also notable and ground zero for the orange wine scene, is the sub-region of Carso.The limited production capacity of wines in the region, however, means that many of these wonderful wines are hard to obtain outside the region.
Wines and Grapes of Friuli
Friuli is acclaimed as one of the top places in the world for whites, and has long been acclaimed for its fragrant, elegant whites. While the region is known primarily for its white wines, more than thirty different grapes are grown in the region. Varietals like Friulano, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Malvasia, Picolit, Vitovska, and Ribolla Gialla produce fragrant, elegant, and captivating wines.
The unique red varietals in Friuli, such as Pignolo, Schioppettino, Tazzelenghe, Terrano, and Refosco, can be made into both standalone single-varietal wines or blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to produce silky and spicy wines.
The region also produces prestigious sweet wines (dessert wines) like Picolit DOCG (produced in very small quantities and commanding high prices) and Ramandolo DOCG.
Finally, the “orange” wines (macerated, prolonged skin-contact wines following ancient wine traditions) are increasingly appreciated by wine critics and wine lovers.
Sparkling wines, generally made in the Charmat method, have started to emerge alongside the still wines, and the region also produces Prosecco.
Grappa is also highly valued here as a high-proof speciality of the region and, after a deliciously hearty bean soup with local bacon, also has a very pleasant effect.
While locals and visitors alike enjoy the vast wine offerings, Friulano wine is often preferred because of its taste and local roots. To dine in Friuli Venezia Giulia is to taste the land, the traditions, and the heart of northeastern Italy. Do you want to experience life in Friuli? Then you cannot skip a visit to eat or drink a “taj” (as we call the glass of wine) at aperitif time.
Already the Romans produced wine here
Around 180 BC, when the Romans established the first colony in the countryside around Aquileia, wines were actively produced. It is said that Livia, the wife of Emperor Augustus, owed her respectable age by drinking each day a glas of ‘Pucinum’. Which might be the nowadays ‘Terrano’ a red wine produced in the wine region ‘Carso’, where the roots of the grapevines manage to work their way through the rugged karst rock. A century later, in 53 BC, Julius Caesar established the Forum Julii (Friuli), and his legionaries began to develop viticulture on the sunny slopes of the Colli Orientali. Over the following centuries, winemaking spread around the Cividale del Friuli, but it saw hard times in the Middle Ages.
Friuli has a complex history, with its western part influenced by the Venetian Republic, while the eastern part was under Habsburg rule. Friuli joined Italy in 1866, when the Austrian Empire ceded Veneto to the newly formed Kingdom of Italy. This included the Udine province, which was part of Friuli. Later, in 1918, following World War I and the Treaty of Rapallo, areas like Trieste and parts of Venezia Giulia were annexed by Italy. Consequentially, there is a “Mittel-Europa meets Italy” feel here, in terms of culture, architecture and cuisine. Italians consider Friuli -Venezia Giulia as one of their best-kept secrets.
In the 1970s, white wines from Friuli started to receive international awareness because of the innovations in winemaking techniques that made it possible for local winemakers to produce more vibrant wines. This change affected the progress of viticulture in the region that has not stopped since. The cultivation and the production of famous, high-quality wines represent a heritage for this area, which has deep roots in the winemaking of the Colli Orientali of Friuli. The Friulian wine scene is home to real characters and wine visionaries, such as Josko Gravner, Alvaro Pecorari, Edi Kante, Marco Felluga, Flavio Pontoni, and Edi and Renato Keber.
Sub-Regions: Four Distinctive Territories
Friuli-Venezia Giulia wine region is divided into four sub-regions: The two most prestigious, premium wine districts are Colli Orientali and Collio (known as Collio Goriziano). In these areas the best vineyards are located on terraces, and in the local Friulian language, the tops of the terraced hillsides are called ronchi and colli means hills. The region of Grave del Friuli is where simpler wines grow on alluvial soils along with Carso. Each area is unique because of the diversity of soil or location. I will focus here on the 4 most important regions to know:
- Friuli Grave
- Colli Orientali del Friuli
- Collio (Collio Goriziano)
- Carso
Friuli Grave
Grave del Friuli is the biggest sub-region of the Friuli-Venezia wine region, accounting for more than half of the production of the region. Grave del Friuli benefits from the ultimate climate and terroir to produce high-quality Pinot Grigio and Prosecco wines. Located south of Grave del Friuli are the smaller DOC’s of Annia, Aquileia, Latisana, and a portion of the Lison-Pramaggiore region, which is shared with the Veneto. These regions, with their sandy, mild maritime climates produce more reds than whites. Today, Pinot Grigio and Prosecco are the kings of Friuli-Grave (yes, they call it “Prosecco” in Friuli as well as in Veneto and also grow the Glera grape).
Collio Goriziano DOC and Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, which are in hilly areas of the pre-Alps above the coastal plains that define southern Friuli, are the most prestigious wine regions in Friuli, both known for producing high-quality white wines and some red wines from a mix of local and international grape varieties.
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Colli Orientali del Friuli is one of the most significant titles from Friuli-Venezia Giulia wine region. The best Friuli Italian wines come from the hills of Colli Orientali. The most popular grape varietal being Tocai Friulano, or today just Friuliano. The European Union awarded the sought-after name Tocai to the Hungarian varietal Tokaj. However, you can also find some Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio. Wines from local white grape Ribolla Gialla are also in higher demand. The vineyards are strategically located on the hillsides to maximize sun exposure, thereby producing better grapes and the cool air that sweeps down from the Alps helps maintain the acidity levels. Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC area produces some of the most prestigious wines in the world is one of the most significant titles from Friuli-Venezia Giulia wine region. Premium wines constitute more than 40 percent of its total production.
Colli Orientali del Friuli is also home to 3 DOCG, 2 of which are devoted to sweet wines:
- Ramandolo: the variety is Verduzzo
- Picolit: the variety is Picolit
Collio Goriziano
Collio was one of the first DOCs in Italy given status in 1968. Area of rolling hills, small villages vineyards offer premium quality wines. Collio sub-region produces high-quality white wines mainly from Pinot Grigio and Bianco grape varieties. You will also be able to find Tocai Friulano, Sauvignon, and the renowned Collio Bianco grape varieties in blend wines.
Carso
Carso is the most northeastern sub-region of the Friuli Venezia Giulia wine region producing both red and white wines. This sub-region also produces the “Orange Wines”. The main grape varieties used in orange wine production can be Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, Vitovska, or a blend of these depending on the winemaker. To date there are 4 producers making this style of wine.
The red grape of Carso A fascinating red wine that is quite old (dating back to the first mentions of Pinot Noir) is called Terrano. Many have confused this rare grape with Refosco, but it’s the local treasure of Carso and the Kras region across the border in Slovenia.
What makes the wines so special
Culturally and historically, Friuli is a rich region. For centuries, northern European and Near Eastern tribes moved through the region on their way to the Mediterranean. The overland spice routes ran through Friuli from the markets of the Byzantine Empire to Venice. Much later, before it became part of the newly formed country of Italy in 1866, Friuli was the stategic Mediterranean port province of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Thus, after centuries of exposure to eclectic ethnic influences, cultural diversity, political jockeying, and mercantile bustle, the Friulians have been left with a sense of dynamism, a can-do spirit, and a heathly attitude when it comes to change. The wines refect this. As a group, Friulian wines are spirited, creative, highly varied and wholly individualistic. The region, is truly an undiscovered gem, a picturesque producer of world class wines sold at very fair prices and without the heavy tourism that seems to have taken over much of the wine world.
Friulian whites
During the 1970’s and 1980’s, while most of the up-and-coming wine regions of the word were focused on creating barrel-fermented, oak-aged wines, especially Chardonnays, Friuli was making the opposite. For Friulian winemakers, the flavor of the fruit and the natural acidity is everything. This devotion to purity is a fairly rare philosophy in the world of white wine.
Friuli’s sweet wines
Italy makes more diverse, fascinating dessert wines than any other country in the world, and two of the most intriguing are Friulian, Verduzzo di Ramandolo made from verduzzo grapes, and Picolit made from picolit grapes. Both grape varieties are grown on the Alpine hillsides of the Colli Orientali del Friuli. Verduzzo di Ramandolo is made near the tiny village of Ramandolo. Picolit on the other hand probably should not even exist. The grape variety has a genetic mutation that causes it to spontaneously abort the flowers on its newly formed clusters. Even in good years, less than half of picolit’s flowers survive to become grapes. The wine as a result is very expensive.
A few facts about Friuli wines
- Number of Wineries: Around 1,700 wineries operate in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region.
- Production: These wineries produce approximately 90 million bottles of wine per year.
- Vineyard Area: The region boasts almost 28,000 hectares of vineyards.
- DOCGs, DOCs and IGTs: There are 4 DOCGs, 12 DOCs and 3 IGTs in Friuli.
Curiosity: The company Vivai Cooperativi Rauscedo, near Pordenone, produces 60 millions grafted vines a year, thus accounting for more than half of the Italian and more then 10% of the world production of vines.
Visiting wineries in Friuli
Wine tastings around the world are very different depending on the location. They are all wonderful experiences, but in Friuli we can offer you something that you cannot find elsewhere. First is the personal contact you have with the actual owners and wine producers of the wineries we visit. It is a much more laid-back affair.
When visiting Friulian wineries, it’s necessary to make appointments in advance and helpful, though not critical, to speak Italian. Most of the wineries in Friuli are smaller in size, less than 10,000 cases produced annually. Much of this production is consumed by the locals. The quality producers we mentioned above do export and can be found within international markets, if only in small quantities. If you find them on the shelves of your local bottle shop, buy them. Better still, find a reason to visit the region.
Wine related events in Friuli Venezia Giulia
- Nestled in the rolling hills of the Collio, Cormòns, once part of the Habsburg Empire, like Gorizia and Trieste, is where the Grape festival takes place every year. In September, in the historic center of Cormons, food and wine are the stars of the traditional Festa del Uva (Grape festival). Three days in the heart of the Collio dedicated to wine and the best local products. There are also shows, music, art exhibitions, markets, and sports initiatives on foot and by bicycle. If you’re keen to explore local wines, head to “Enoteca di Cormòns” at Piazza XXIV Maggio, number 21. It’s the perfect spot to discover the finest DOC wines from the Collio and Isonzo regions.
- Cantine Aperte, also known as “Open Wine Cellars,” is an annual where wine cellars associates of the Movimento Turismo del Vino open their doors to the public for tastings, tours, and other activities. The event typically takes place on the last Sunday of May, or sometimes the first two days of June. The event is a big draw for locals but many Austrians and Germans cross the borders to visit the wine cellars and cantinas across the region.
- This Friuli DOC festival is a major celebration of Friuli’s wines, flavors, and traditions. It features tastings of local products, including Friulian wines, San Daniele prosciutto, Montasio cheese, and Gubana. Friuli DOC is a major event that showcases the region’s agricultural richness and craftsmanship particularly wines. It also includes music and entertainment.
- Amber Wine Festival: This Trieste-based festival is dedicated to amber (orange) wines, highlighting winemakers who produce these wines with a focus on sustainability and quality, says Amber Wine Festival.
The ‘Strada del Vino e Sapori FVG’ is an itinerary that touches on several farms and wineries in the region to discover Friuli Venezia Giulia’s bounty directly from local producers.
Ready to discover the beautiful region of Friuli?
Join us on one of our cultural vacations in Friuli and you will have the chance to taste some of the best wines being made in Friuli -Venezia Giulia today. Visit a range of fine wine estates, from noble villas to small family-run wineries, and even take in a wine experience in Slovenia, just across the border. Enjoy a mix of memorable meals, at slow food trattorias and osterias. Soak up the delightful surroundings and enjoy the wine tasting, as we take you around our home region. If you would like us to customize an exclusive journey just for you, your family and friends, get in touch with me. We look forward to welcoming you to our home region.
